The Rhodes port of Mandraki is dotted with yachts; on Kasos, the so-called the island "Cinderella", the berths are often empty. The southern Dodecanese Islands are full of contrast, which makes them especially attractive for boaters.
Trekking from Kasos to Helios Island
Kasos considered the windiest southern island in the Aegean Sea. With the increasing wind strength from 4 to 6 on the Beaufort scale, we rounded the Cape of Crete at full backstay Sidheros in order to reach the southwestern coast of about. Kasos. Skillfully bypassing the underwater reefs, however, we did not immediately enter the port of Fry. And this was due to natural breakwaters, which reliably protect the island from the destructive impact of sea waves, and, at the same time, require the focused attention of the entire team.
It was necessary to try hard and use maximum skills and abilities to enter the harbor, elegantly squeezing into a passage the size of a cargo barge. It was only thanks to the yacht's good maneuverability that we managed to slip quickly without bumping into the reefs. Having twirled a little in anticipation and already losing patience after a long day, we were sincerely delighted with the approaching tugboat, who showed us the further way to the pier. We were the only yacht in the entire harbor, which did not surprise us at all, because we knew the second name of the island Kasos - Cinderella.
There is something that is strikingly different Kasos from all other islands of the southern Dodecanese... It is for this that he is called Cinderella. And here's why: preferring to dine in a small cafe, sailors usually expect to find only one tavern in the port, in the menu of which they offer ouzo with anchovies. However, there is no end to the surprise when, having gone ashore, you can see the neat, clean harbor streets that stretch from the tall blue and white church, which is rightfully a bright and stunning sight for sailors who have just stepped off their yachts. Here, too, we imagined so many different cafes and pubs that it was really difficult to make a choice.
Transfer by yacht from Kasos to Helios island
"Forward to the empty city!"
I have been sailing in the Aegean Sea for 35 years now and I thought I knew the Greek waters thoroughly. But the island of Kasos is a completely different story that never ceases to amaze me again and again. I never thought that locals could work here on Sundays!
Not having a great desire to be among the hustle and bustle of the people, dust and noise, we hastened to set sail as soon as possible. But in which direction should we go now? You can take a course for Pigadia, but we were not attracted by the open port of an absolutely unattractive, overcrowded tourist city.
Port Ormos Tristoma - in the north O. Karpathos - turned out to be a more interesting place, which attracts precisely by the lack of attractions and, accordingly, tourists. In any case, this is the most suitable place for a yachtsman who dreams of seeing some empty city with a minimum number of locals. However, one could only dream of favorable weather, promising good visibility in the Aegean Sea that day. The clouds were gathering more and more actively over this wildest of the islands. Dodecanese... Passage to the port Ormos Tristomo could hardly be seen at dusk. If it were not for the signal light of the lighthouse, we would never have been able to pass between O. Nottia and the towering reefs of the promontory Tristoma to a cozy protected bay, while constantly being exposed to the sharp blows of the stormy sea waves.
Having gone ashore, we realized that the city is not at all as deserted as the captain tried to convince us of this. We saw a recently whitewashed church, the recently renovated houses were striking, which were waiting for new owners. However, the next street was still a few miles away, and we decided to spend the night on the yacht, safely mooring it to the pier.
"An island, originally Greek, like the Aegean Sea"
Thanks to the wind that is born in the rocks of the island, we manage to reach the island quickly enough the next day. Ormos Emborios... In the port of Chalka, life does not seem to be frozen either. Taking into account the muddy bottom, as well as the sufficiently deep water, the locals installed mooring booms to make it easier for the sailors to anchor the vessel, which we took advantage of without slowing down.
Having gone ashore, we found that the former residential buildings were skillfully converted into cafes and restaurants, where life is in full swing, and the soul of the sailor does not lose heart. In the labyrinth of small alleys, many people are working on their own homes. We were lucky to talk to a girl from Hamburg who is called Eddie by the locals. Since she gave up the mooring lines in Livadia, no forces have been able to force her to leave the island. Tylos, another native Greek island, like the Aegean Sea.
When we asked Eddie what made her stay on the island, the answer was surprisingly trite: "Love!" Love for preserved, untouched by tourists places that have an attractive force that is difficult to resist. The same feeling arises in Megalo Choriowhere the sun shines and the sea makes noise only for local uncorrupted souls.
Trekking from Kasos to Helios Island
You don't need to think that these are godforsaken sedate places, as there are also restaurants, bars and its own unique nightlife here. The only thing that I would not recommend using on O. Tilos (Hora) Is a guidebook. As soon as I stopped following the proposed route and turned not to the left, but to the right, I entered a road that rises so steeply that I would recommend this path to anyone who loves thrills. Having overcome all the difficulties, I climbed up, and before me lay the most beautiful city, which for centuries has been resting on rocky cliffs and slopes. Climbing even higher and reaching the top of the so-called Venetian fortification, I saw a beautiful unique landscape - an amazing combination of the Aegean Sea, city and rocks.
"You can't find a more beautiful port"
Symi city it owes its fame and wealth to sea sponges, which were extracted in large quantities from the depths of the sea and then sold to the aristocracy in a Brussels store. Once the store has lost its popularity, Symi began to fade. However, the geographical position of Symi was too beautiful and profitable for the world to forget about this city and island, which thanks to this turned into a kind of tourist center and which has the opportunity to offer a berth to the most expensive and luxurious yachts in the world.
This, in fact, was the reason that yachts can now dock not only to the northern embankment, but also to the southern one, where the port master cleverly finds a free space, which we took advantage of with pleasure and without delay.
Peasant-style salad is served at the stern, and the bow anchor is given on the other side. Immediately you pay attention to the lack of space, which is somewhat annoying, and your ears involuntarily listen to the constant gusts of wind, which the mooring cables and anchor chains are trying to resist. In the evening, the sounds of disco melodies are heard, which enhance the feeling of a tourist holiday. We tried to get away from these sounds, not being afraid to go along the steep lift road up to the hotel. Ano polis... Being high and far from all the raging rest, we still had to admit that we could not find a better port in this water area.
Trekking from Kasos to Helios Island
"He who comes too late is punished by the gods", - said the sun god Helios, whose cult was especially widespread on the islands Dodecanese... According to legend, since Helios missed the division of the Earth, he got only one island, which rested under the sea waters. The only inhabitant of the island was the daughter of Poseidon and Aphrodite. In honor of her, Helios named the island "Rhodes".
After a while, the inhabitants of this island worshiped the sun god, erecting a bronze statue for him, which was located exactly in the place where we removed the sail, before entering the port of Mandraki. Rhodes is so striking in its beauty that the old city was included in the list of cultural world heritage sites. Walking along the streets of Rhodes, you involuntarily feel the origins of Greek culture. It is a pity that now people are more and more focused on senseless wandering around the city in search of successful shopping. And only a few listen to the words of Lord Byron and try to find "the soul of the Greeks on earth."
Author: Karl Victor
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