Anchoring: Basic Tips

After a grueling but enjoyable day at sea, there is nothing better than anchoring and resting for a breathtaking day on board. However, for many (especially for beginners), this process raises questions and anxiety. We have prepared a series of simple yet effective anchoring tips. This material is suitable for both beginners as a collection of basic knowledge, and experienced sea wolves - after all, any knowledge needs to be refreshed.

Like most seemingly simple tasks, anchoring requires planning. New generation anchors have a much better holding force to weight ratio. Remember, the yacht is not held by the anchor itself, but by the chain.

The anchor chain is an important part of the yacht equation. It is usually 3-4 times as heavy as the anchor itself, adding valuable weight and helping to hold the boat well. The length of 40-60 m allows anchoring at a depth of 10-15 m, which is sufficient for most coastal regions.

Choice of anchorage

Finding a good anchor point is half the battle. More famous places are indicated in guidebooks and maps, but you should not be limited to them. Choosing your own anchorage is very easy if you know what to look for. Hiding places and quiet coves are much more common than you might think. 

Check the forecast for wind shifts that can turn a secluded cove into a dangerous lee shore. The squall is harder to predict. Approach the choice of parking space with intelligence and caution.

The nature of anchorages may change during the tide cycle. As the current changes, so does the shelter, as things like rocky outcroppings, which can form natural breakwaters, are either hidden under the water or rising out of it at low tide.

The nature of the seabed

One of the key anchoring skills for cruisers is understanding what is underwater. Sand and silt provide the best hold if they are not too soft. Grass and stones should be avoided.

The map gives some idea of the seafloor, but there are other clues as well. A visible coastline can roughly show what is going on underwater. Rocky outcroppings on the shore may extend seaward, as can the sandy patch in between. Try to position yourself in front of this area. Sand reflects more light than kelp or rocks, so anchor in paler areas of the water.

The satellite view on Google Maps is invaluable. Before sailing, save screenshots to your phone. Smooth contours indicate sand, while the rocky bottom is more uneven.

Depth

You need to consider the depth of both the water at high tide and at low tide. The length of the anchor chain limits the depth at which you can anchor successfully. The 5:1 ratio is ideal for all-round anchoring. 5:1 means 5 meters of anchor chain per 1 meter of depth. 

In this case, if there is a depth of 10 meters under the boat, then 50 meters of chain will be needed to anchor. Be sure to estimate the height of the likely tide so you don't accidentally get swept away by a tidal wave. The minimum depth for anchoring is: draft + distance to the bottom + tide drop. 

Rolling and demolition

Lastly, you will need to leave clearance for pitching and drifting. While you sleep, eat or have fun, the forces of the elements will continue to act on the boat. The yacht can be slightly demolished relative to the anchor. The best option would be to foresee this moment and know in advance how much you can be demolished. Let us give an example of this kind of calculations. In our example, we need 29 m of chain.

The turning circle (drift) radius is slightly less than the length of the chain, 28 m, plus the length of the boat. So 28m chain plus 15m boat length = 43m radius from anchor point. Most of the time the chain is not tensioned. Part of the chain rests on the sea floor, creating friction and dampening the movement of the ship. If she's pulled in

strong conditions, it is usually in one or two directions. In order for a yacht to make a full circle around a dropped anchor with the chain fully tensioned, something supernatural must happen. 

Scale

Understanding scale helps predict how limited an anchorage is. Zooming in on digital maps can be misleading, so measure your navigational dimensions. As a guide, the cables (182 m, 200 yd, 0.1 mile) are a comfortable width for several boats to swing.

Other yachts

Carefully determine your position relative to other vessels. Visualize the location of their anchor by looking through the scope and assessing the conditions: are they far behind or am I right in front of them?

By anchoring from the stern and a little to the side of other ships, you will avoid tangling the anchor chain. Keep in mind the length of the dropped anchor chain. This will give you a rough idea of how far the current can move the boat relative to the anchor. Knowing the approximate radius of rotation of the boat will make it much easier not to crash into the neighbor's yacht.

Different ships have different rolling characteristics. Powerboats and light yachts are sensitive to wind. Heavy displacement, long keel yachts are better able to cope with pitching and other joys of marine life. Try to anchor among similar ships that will behave the same as yours. 

dropping the anchor

Before dropping anchor, always check the connection of the chain and the anchor: all fasteners must be properly tightened. For example, galvanized fittings hold better than stainless ones. Having taken care of choosing a suitable place, you need to quickly release the anchor. Before arriving, lower it onto the nose roller so that it descends instantly when released.

Bring the boat to a stop against the wind or tide and tell the crew on the bow deck how much chain to release. Release the chain Release the clutch and let gravity do its work. It's faster than lowering the chain on a windlass, so the anchor will land exactly where you want it to.

Chain markers

The chain marking makes it easy to see how much chain has been released. Plastic inserts work best, although colored cable ties or braided cord also work well. 

The paint is not very durable unless the surface is well prepared. The color coding should be simple, with large blocks of color to make it easy to see when and how much chain has been dropped.

Position control

After you have already anchored and checked the reliability of the fastening (and this is a separate science), you need to check the position of the boat. At a minimum, you need to record the depth and some visual markers after you have taken position. 

With a steady sea breeze and a good chain, this may be enough. Just check your position at dusk and get a good night's sleep. However, there are times when more active control is required, such as in rough or choppy conditions or when there is limited space to roll.

It is not necessary to stay awake all night yourself, you can install an anchor alarm that will signal that the yacht is starting to be demolished. Shallow depth alarms on instruments are also extremely important.

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13.08.2022