On a yacht through the Panama Canal: everything you need to know about it

Sailors passing Cape Horn, and the canal diggers did a lot to make "Path" between the Atlantic and the Pacific easier for the rest. It's quite surreal to find yourself gliding on a miniature yacht along a huge ship in a box of water 25 meters above sea level. Entering the canal was stressful, exciting and awkward. But the exit was full of euphoria. Panama Canal Pass - a worthy jewel in a yachtsman's piggy bank.

The channel is like a gap between the oceans. It is congested and the aisle queue is being auctioned, and its smooth passage depends on proper planning. Our preparations began about three months before, after we learned that seasonal fluctuations in load can significantly extend the time from arrival to Colon before the approved date of passage. For most of the year, the standard is four to six days of waiting. But in high season, from late January to May, six to twenty days elapse from vessel measurement and payment of dues to the approval of the date. Therefore, for boats going to Pacific Ocean, the period from December to mid-January is an excellent window for minimal downtime.

Latency increases as participants arrive Atlantic Rally for Cruisers (ARC)... Having split from the main fleet in Colombia, we decided to spend several weeks in free sailing on the azure waters of Panamanian Guna Yalı... Hiring an agent was our first decision when we learned about downtime. The second was the involvement of a lawyer who could help us find a window in the long wait for the high season.

We arrived at Colon, Panamadriven by stormy trade winds and the seething sea, which subsided only behind the massive breakwaters of the canal. Mooring opportunities on the Caribbean side of the canal are not very diverse: there are only a couple of dedicated anchorage areas among commercial and cargo ships. However, they are also accompanied by safety risks and are often limited in the ability to go ashore. Boats waiting in line for more than a few days often leave or to a nearby Portobello or further - to Guna Yala (San Blas Islands) or to Bocas del Toro... Acceptable parking on the Caribbean side is possible at the marina Shelter Baywhere we parked our Stevens 47 totem pending transit.

Step one. Measurement of the boat

Our agent, Eric Galvez, met us shortly after we moored at Shelter Bayto confirm the procedure. A pleasant face and excellent English softened the news of the simple. Before you are assigned a transit date, you must be measured and made payments - the transit date is not reserved in advance.

Galvez accepted our payment and agreed the arrival of the measurer the next day. Measurements for transit are made exclusively by official representatives Panama Canal... If you decide to do all the paperwork yourself, then you will need to call the measurement office (all channel staff speak English) and agree on a time and place for measuring the boat.

The transit date assigned to us meant two weeks of downtime in the marina. But we counted on the effort Erika will open up opportunities to get into an earlier window. In addition, rigging and spars significantly improve the waiting time for boats going to go to the Pacific Ocean.

Step two. Pay channel fees

He took care of our payments Galvez - that was part of his agency work. If you do everything yourself, the metering department gives you a special form for paying at Citibank. Transit fees vary depending on the size of your boat. Up to 50 feet the fee is $ 800. For boats from 50 to 80 feet - $ 1300. Moreover, the full length (LOA, length overall) is taken, including the bowsprit, roof rails, davits, etc. Documentation of our Totem-a showed LOA at 46 feet 8 inches, but we exceeded 50 feet after measuring from the end of the anchor to the dinghy's davit. Then we let the air into the dinghy and climbed just into the category of boats up to 50 feet in the measurer's record.

In addition to all fees, you will need more insurance premium at a rate of about $ 900. This is a fee to cover the additional costs that may arise if you miss your slot, get too slow, need a water taxi for mooring and the like. The agent pays this insurance premium for you. If you are without an agentthen this contribution (like other official payments) can be made by credit card, cash or transfer to Citibank along with other standard fees. The insurance will be returned after the successful passage of the channel.

Our costs for canal passage (including separate, not directly related to the passage, moments) got up a little more than in 2000 dollars. This included: visas, cruise clearance, customs clearance fees. A considerable amount, but Cape Horn or Northwest Passage Is not a very attractive alternative and the necessary equipment would cost us much more.

Each step of the channel-controlled procedure was transparent. An unpleasant moment happened only with the port manager in Colon, who said that we had an error in the documents on arrival, and it would take $ 20 to fix it. Since there was only an hour before our departure, we had no opportunity to argue with him - being late with the passage entailed a fine. In general, this was the only time in a decade of our cruising, when we knew for sure that we were "put on a paw."

Key payments:

• Transit fee: boats up to 50 feet: $800; from 50 feet: $1,300
• Inspection: $54
• Security: $130
• Agent: $350-500
• Mooring operators:  $100 / person (or look for assistants among other transit countries)
• Ends / fenders: $50-$250
• Fender return: $12
• Cruising permit: $197

Step three. Organization of logistics

Mandatory on board four mooring officers, and it is required four endscorresponding to the channel specifications. Also you will need sturdy fenders... The agent will arrange for this or you can search on site yourself. Morning conversations of sailors on VHF, marina newsletters, local Facebook groups and word of mouth among cruisers will put you in touch with the available offers.

Mooring operators usually recruited from other cruise boats. Joining someone for transit is a great preparation before navigating your own boat, and a way to figure out what's what when it's time to look for moorters for yourself.

If you don't find volunteers, experienced Panamanians can be hired for about $ 100 / person. However, whoever comes aboard, make sure they know how to tie the right knot, have common sense, and are willing to work, not take selfies.

Sluice ends must be at least 125 feet (40 meters) long and 23-38 mm thick. Although most boats have standard fenders, a budgetary alternative in the form old tires wrapped in polyethylene Is a good solution to protect your enclosure from a rough wall or a sluice neighbor.

Final preparations include good food, snacks and drinks throughout the transit. The transit usually takes two days, the night is spent on a leash by a large buoy just beyond the canal, in the lake Gatun... In addition to mooring officers, your team will include at least one canal coordinator - pilotfamiliar with the specifics of the passage of the channel.

You are expected to provide the pilots with hot food, as well as water and cool cola. Snacks must be available at all times of transit.

Step four. It's time!

"Cristobal station, Cristobal station, this is the sailing yacht Totem." After weeks of anticipation and planning, this challenge is VHF informs the port service of the location of our boat before the passage of the canal. We have a one-day transit planned: the sky is just starting to brighten when Totem's pilot, Roy, jumps out of the water taxi. Roy has shown that he is indeed a valuable link in securing our passage. Cruise boats usually link in pairs or triplets to traverse the canal in a block, and Roy managed our "bunch". The totem was identified as the center boat (and Roy as the main pilot of the bunch) based on propulsive characteristics.

Personally, we fell in love with Roy when he remarked dryly: "Great, now we have big fenders for our protection."looking like two aluminum boats fit us for a bundle Ovni.

The canal is approximately 37 miles long, most of which are Lake Gatun and Culebra Kat between three locks at each end. When approaching from the Caribbean side, three successive Gatun lock chambers lift vessels approximately 90 feet. While the monkeys in the jungle greet the dawn, we are approaching the first lock behind a large ship of the type Ro-Rocarrying cars. When the sluice doors are closed and the water level changes, the mooring operators will tighten (or loosen) the ends as instructed by the coordinator. In general, it is more difficult than it sounds and requires concentration and attention. One of the boats was not very attentive behind us and allowed the bundle to slip - a potentially dangerous situation for the boats. The team managed to hastily fix the ends, almost twice with their hands. Therefore, it is important to be focused on your role.

Our bundle passed through the first three locks intact, and then was split to pass Lake Gatun and proceed to the Pacific side locks. This was the longest part of the transit, time to rest and eat. March is dry season and we were able to relax in the cockpit listening to our pilot's different stories and enjoying the views. History buffs looked forward to meeting huge floating crane Titan, a trophy of World War II. And nature lovers could enjoy birds, monkeys and crocodiles (a three-meter crocodile sailed past us on Culebra Kat).

Our bundle passed through the first three locks intact, and then was split to pass Lake Gatun and proceed to the Pacific side locks. This was the longest part of the transit, time to rest and eat. March is dry season and we were able to relax in the cockpit listening to our pilot's different stories and enjoying the views. History buffs looked forward to meeting huge floating crane Titan, a trophy of World War II. And nature lovers could enjoy birds, monkeys and crocodiles (a three-meter crocodile sailed past us on Culebra Kat).

The pilot is not the captain, and you are still responsible for the boat and the crew. However, in order to pass the channel safely, it is imperative to work closely with it. He understands the situation in the locks, and some of the instructions that seem strange (for example, to turn the boat against the wall of the lock) have, in fact, a reason. So, a current of up to 4 knots can form near the wall, and the purpose of the instructions in this situation is to protect the bundle from twisting.

Container ship crashes into channel wall

Leaving Miraflores gateway behind the back, Totem on the motor went to Bridge of the Americas and The Pacific Ocean... This marked our return to the Great Water, to the last leg of our family trip around the world. And by our last weeks together, before the older kids head off to college. An amazing moment witnessed by this outstanding structure - Panama Canal.

Chips for easy channel passage

• Keep your deck clean. Remove or stockpile all trash to keep the area around bow and stern ducks as open as possible.
• Make sure all cable routing is working properly. Corrections will take time, which may not be if the current begins to twist the bundle.
• The stern ends are most stressed. Hoist them into the cockpit winch through the aft duck for better control and mechanical advantage.
• Prepare a team that works with the ends. Have a meeting and make sure everyone understands the importance of being focused and getting your job done, rather than streaming to social media as the channel passes.
• Repeat the pilot's instructions. This will confirm that you have heard and accepted everything. It can also help clarify the pilot's intent when instructions are issued quickly.
• Use your pilot. Talk during the maneuvers, ask for clarification on the next steps to understand the actions he wants you to do before things start happening.
• Note: the main pilot (who is not necessarily on your boat) may require rapid changes in engine operation and / or steering.

A source: Yachting world / Translation: Dmitry Bushuev

24.05.2019