The perfect Greek itinerary for a family charter

Start-finish: Lefkada (aka Lefkada).

• "Pros" - smooth sea, generally light winds, short crossings, a lot of sandy beaches, beautiful grottoes, picturesque natural "nooks", several interesting points of the coastal excursion.
• "Minuses" - there are few towns, in principle, and there is absolutely no "postcard flavor" (white-blue Greece), a complicated (or expensive) transfer.

According to an ancient blogger Homer, we are in the homeland of the helmet of the shining conqueror of Troy - Odyssey... The cunning tsar clearly knew a lot about choosing a place of residence: picturesque hills of islands with abundant greenery, cozy bays with sandy beaches, turquoise water - beauty! Here in the summer there is no tireless blower "Meltemi", But usually not strong"Maistro"Works as scheduled: at lunchtime it" turns on "," turns off "by sunset. And the islands cover themselves with Ionian Sea - there is practically no wave. I don’t understand why the cunning king was pulled from this corner of paradise on a long, long and dangerous business trip ?! Well, yes, good company, good wine, adrenaline entertainments ... But the hippies of the 70s - they came here to found their "alternative societies".

But more on this later, but for now - as before this grace (more precisely, on Lefkada, to the starting point) to get. Alas, there is no big airport “at hand” (like the Athenians). Nearest airport Preveza (code PVK), from which 25 minutes by taxi. The bus runs rarely - every 3-4 hours. But the saddest thing is that planes rarely fly here, moreover, "expensively".

Video review of the trip along this route

Therefore, the most real thing is to go from Athens... The regular bus takes almost 6 hours (plus X93 sky-bus from Athens airport to the desired bus station - KTEL Kifisou) - long and tiring. It is much more convenient to rent 1-2 cars (or a minibus) for the crew, for the whole week, "from plane to plane." If you arrange everything in advance, then - oh, a miracle! - it turns out not only faster and more convenient, but also cheaper in terms of each. Not far from the marina there are free parking lots, the manager of the charter company will advise where to leave the "wheels".

Marina on Lefkada large, from here every weekend, like bees from the morning hive, dozens of yachts "fly away". On Friday, this will turn into a problem: all this "swarm" will run back, lining up in a long queue to the only gas station with chronically unhurried Greeks ... And happy who rented a boat right on the embankment in the city center (there are also charter operators there) - you can proudly queue pass, refuel on the spot (as in Athens, from a refueller).

But - at a distance! Will be the first to meet us Meganisi island - and shelter for the night (if you managed to go out on Saturday evening) in one of the deep bays on the north side. I will not say that the bays are especially picturesque, but it is cozy there, and in some places (in Wati or Spartochori) "Restaurant" (remember that on Fridays and Saturdays, taverns are usually packed). But in the afternoon we will slowly move along the chain of sandy beaches Meganisipaying special attention to the large caves Papanicoli and Papageorg (plan dinghy or kayak excursions).

Further - to the east, to the island Kalamos... The town of the same name is cozy there (shower, tavern, shop), but not particularly remarkable, but lovers of the "curiosity" will certainly be interested in the ghost town Porto Leone... After the earthquake in 1953, its inhabitants left (they say the wells have salted ...), their silent houses gaping with empty windows - the atmosphere is gloomy and mysterious. But someone is looking after the church.

Atokos - a lonely uninhabited rock in the sea, majestic and ... magnetic for romantics. In the 70s, a hippie artist Vido Buller invited like-minded people here to create an "oasis of democracy without the limitations and conventions of modern society." In summer, idyll reigned, but in winter everyone eventually fled to the mainland - it is cold and uncomfortable on a wild impassable island ... And we are interested in beaches under beautiful rocky cliffs on the eastern and southern sides of the island - well, it is very picturesque here!

Now - to Odyssey on Ithaca... True, where, in fact, the king lived, scientists argue to this day: not near the capital Wati (on the hill of Aetos), not at Stavros (settlement in the northern part). But the locals will show you how to get to the nymph cave. Marmarospiliwhere is the conqueror Troy allegedly hid treasures king Alcinoe... And to the swineherd's dwelling Eumeya (the Arethusa cave), who was the first to shelter the prodigal Odyssey, admirers Homer may well climb (trekking shoes are required!). The king himself, in his current bronze guise, meets mooring yachts on the embankment Wati.

The capital offers travelers an archaeological museum, a bakery and taverns. Should I go there? For an amateur. As for me, it is more pleasant to taste local dishes ("rovani", "guvetsi", fish "savoro" ...) in compact and very cozy towns Frikes or Kioni... True, you need to arrive there for mooring before lunch - then you won't find a place. But why not anchor nearby, enjoying after dinner (dingi for help) peace away from the noise of neighbors ?!

And in the afternoon - again a string of excellent sandy beaches along the entire east coast. One of them is the same hippies who escaped from Atokosa, founded in due time Sarakiniko's Alternative Life (Sarakiniko alternatives Leben GmbH). With the same ending: they quarreled and fled after a couple of years (documentary filmmaker Thomas Schmidt in 2009 made a touching film about it). And one of the founders Rolf Brunner and now dwells there, higher on the hill. Life is simple here: no electricity, no heating; water is in the well; the owner grows vegetables and makes olive oil ...

Go to Kefalonia, the largest island in the archipelago. And so it makes sense to explore it not only from the water, but also along the coast. The excursion can be organized (local travel agencies to help) from the townships Sami or Agia Eufemia... Minimum program - two caves: Melissani (with an underground lake, which will be taken inland by boat, unusual) and Dragorati (richly inlaid with stalactites-stalagmites and its glorious acoustics - here even Pavarotti somehow sang). For advanced tourists there are bonuses: the cave of St. Gerasimos (with a monastery next to it), the fortress of St. George, a picturesque village Asos, the monastery of St. Andrew, a small winery "Robola" ... Tourists are taken to the beaches, one of which (Myrtos) is even considered the best in Greece and is endowed with a "blue flag UNESCO". But we have so many of them on the route that it hardly makes sense to waste time (my subjective opinion, of course).

Those who are used to walking in Greece from town to town, then on Kefalonia they are. Only here they do not shine with color (like the Aegean), for example, restaurants and shops. But in Fiskardo worth a visit, its pedestrian center is cozy and pretty. Yachts dock in the cramped harbor right next to the tavern tables. However, finding a vacant place is still a problem. And in the morning the skippers have daily entertainment: anchors overlap ...

For those who like to cruise slowly and enjoy further Kefalonia there is no need to go: it is in it (and Lefkada) shelters - the calmest waters, all transitions are no more than 2 hours and a lot of natural corners for resting body and soul. But the more active (in the yachting and in the cognitive sense) should "run" to Zakynthos... Its majestic chalk cliffs are delightful, spending the night under the overhanging "walls" will inspire even non-romantics, there are pretty grottoes and you can stumble upon a seal. Selfie-maker's dream Navagio beach, Ionica's business card, replicated on postcards and certainly “crammed” into every travel booklet. The highlight of an already beautiful place is the rusty remains of a smugglers' ship thrown onto the beach by a storm back in 1980.

But as for me, the very thing - "Blue grottoes" of Zakynthos. It is a chain of caves and arches that you must go by dinghy or kayak slowly and savoring the details. Amateur photographers: get your equipment ready, you won't regret it!

Obliged to warn skippers: go to Zakynthos need in the "weather window". Beautiful parking and beach "Navagio"- from the west, prevailing winds (north-west"Maistro“) They overtake a sensitive wave there, uncomfortable at the anchorage, and dangerous on the beach (moving away to dinghy from the coast is often another problem).

The charter week is drawing to a close and we are back to Lefkada... And for one last night, consider one of the two towns on the south coast. Vasiliki - a popular resort among windsurfers: there are no waves here, and the wind is accelerating along the gorge. On the shore - restaurants and lively nightlife, east of town - a beautiful beach Agiophili, where you can only get from the water. Sivota - a deep protected bay with picturesque shores, it is pleasant here both at the pier (the entire embankment is yours) and at anchor (in relative solitude). There are also many taverns and a vibrant nightlife (especially at the beginning and end of the week).

And tomorrow - to the finish line, to the marina Lefkada... But many will return here, and more than once. Behind green hills, majestic cliffs, sandy beaches, serene anchorages and calm, leisurely sailing marches. This Greek route is ideal for traveling with children, you can safely take your grandparents with you. Ionic - salvation for those who adore yachts, but get seasick. The route of romantics and admirers of Homer ...

Bogdan PARFENIUK

12.03.2020